How to match a pocket square

The origins of the pocket square

The pocket square has very ancient origins; as far back as ancient Egypt, people were known to dye scraps of fabric red as a symbol of wealth.

By the end of the Middle Ages, the handkerchief became a distinguishing element for the upper bourgeois, both as an ornamental and practical item, as gentlemen would cover their noses when passing through foul-smelling streets.

It was also used to indicate one's social status; the more precious the materials and embroideries, the higher the status.

Eventually, it came to be considered a true jewel, passed down from generation to generation.

The origins of the modern pocket square

The modern pocket square originated in the 19th century, when the men's two-piece suit became popular.

Its purpose was to prevent the handkerchief from coming into contact with unhygienic objects such as coins, keys, and so on.

Pocket Square and Occasions

Nowadays, the pocket square is a detail that can make one's look unique in any occasion, but to achieve a successful result, it is necessary to pay attention to some details, primarily the colors, which should never overshadow the suit, as the handkerchief should not be the center of attention, but rather add a touch of elegance and completeness.

If you carefully observe tailored jackets, you will notice that each one is made with a pocket that, if left empty, immediately appears anonymous and lacking in personality.

Another important aspect is the occasion, as it is crucial to adapt accordingly, for example:

• work: a work suit immediately becomes more appealing if you choose a basic-colored cotton accessory like white, light grey, or ecru.

If you also wear a tie, the pocket square can echo its patterns and colors, but it's better to choose a different fabric to create a pleasant contrast;

• ceremonies: for a gala evening or a wedding, a white cotton or linen pocket square is perfect for adding charm to a dark-colored suit.

If you want to be daring, you can opt for a colorful and whimsical pattern;

• weekends: given the particular informality of the occasion, lively patterns and colors, even in stark contrast to each other, will work well on a casual blazer;
• parties and informal gatherings: the outfit can become fresh and playful if you manage to mix colors and materials, such as cotton with linen or silk twill.

Pocket Square Pairings and Fabrics

Once you have identified the context in which you want to wear a pocket square, all that remains is to perfect the combination of colors and fabrics.

The color should first and foremost be different from the pattern of the tie.

To avoid style mistakes and a tacky effect, it is advised to combine a patterned tie with a solid-colored pocket square or vice versa.

If a tie is not worn, you can choose a pocket square that matches the shades of the suit or shirt.

As for fabrics, feel free to mix and match: for example, if you choose a satin or silk scarf, it's better to opt for a suit made of a less shiny fabric.

When in doubt, a white cotton or linen pocket square is always a safe choice.

How to Fold a Pocket Square

• To create the first type of fold, also called Presidential, lay the handkerchief flat on the surface. Then fold it in half from left to right, and then from top to bottom, maintaining a border of one or two centimeters. At this point, simply fold it horizontally to fit the length of the pocket;
• The second type of fold is achieved by laying the handkerchief flat, grasping it in the center with your thumb and index finger. Then slowly lift it and fold the bottom part upwards;
• The triangular fold can be done in two ways: with one or two points sticking out. For the first type, called One Corner Up, lay the handkerchief flat and fold it diagonally to form a triangle. Fold both corners at the base towards the center, then place the handkerchief in the pocket with the point facing upward. The second type, called Two-Corner Up, is achieved by folding the handkerchief into a triangle without overlapping the corners. Simply fold the two corners at the base towards the center and insert it into the pocket, leaving two points out.

As previously stated, these are just the traditional and most common pocket square folds: you can also try others by taking inspiration from photos, magazines, or simply searching the internet. Unleashing your creativity is important, without going overboard. However, it is essential to match the folds to the type of suit you are wearing: the square fold is ideal for classic suits, the puff fold for tweed jackets, and the triangular folds for sporty jackets.